Friday, March 21, 2014

beet root powder win!

I'll be brief since I just wrote a post that contained information about beet root powder. I have been using this stuff instead of blush and I absolutely love it. It provides a nice, natural looking pink glow to my cheeks. I bought a 4 oz bag for $3 of amazon, definitely worth it! It goes on just like blush, and contains iron and other vitamins and minerals that help nourish the skin. It smells a little funny, but it's not noticeable on the face.
It looks quite dark compared to the rosy pink colored blush I normally use, but it goes on a light pink color. If it is too dark for your skin you can always mix it with a bit of corn starch until the desired shade is reached. It can also be used as food coloring, and is a much better choice because many food colors are petroleum products and have been linked to a slew of health problems (they are even banned in Europe). I intend to use it to color lip balm when I get to that part of my project, I forget which month that falls under. I highly recommend you get some!

foundation take two

Foundation is one of the most basic components of everyone's makeup regime, hence the name I'm sure. Being one of the products that covers the most surface are of skin I want to make sure I'm not absorbing anything super bad for me. One of the things that originally got me interested in this project was reading a post about "natural" beauty products that can actually contain some toxic stuff. Mineral makeup was on that list, claiming that it can contain lead and other heavy metals. A reminder that "natural" does not mean "non-toxic." Henna hair dye is another product that people mistake as less toxic than other brands and it turns out it is the opposite. Henna hair dye also contains toxic minerals and you might be better off using the chemical-laden commercial brands, but I digress.

I don't wear much makeup. My only everyday product is blush, it just makes your whole face look good with hardly any product. Next most used product is my day to day loose powder. I'm reasonably young and have decent skin so I don't find cream foundations necessary. I bought a jar of physician's formula organic wear powder a while back because it was at my local ross. I've been pretty happy with it. Decent coverage, light feel, it met my need pretty well. Skindeep gives it a 4 on the hazardous scale. It has a low to moderate overall risk, and a moderate cancer risk. Oddly enough, the most toxic product in there is grapefruit extract because of its "multiple, additive exposures." Other toxic ingredients include titanium dioxide and mica. Now that I've made my own powder I threw my old stuff in the trash.

For my recipe you will only need 4-6 ingredients, depending on your skin needs.

The base for this foundation is bentonite clay. Bentonite clay is aged volcanic ash, the name comes from the largest known deposit is in Fort Benton, Wyoming. The brand I bought is Aztec healing clay. I picked up a large jar of it at my local health food store for around $7. Bentonite has a lot of benefits for your body inside and out. For the skin, bentonite can help heal and prevent acne. It reduces irritation from cuts, burns, and bug bites, and can be quite calming for itchiness due to eczema, psoriasis, and chicken pox. It can be mixed with water to make a detoxifying mask, or used in place of baby powder to dry and sooth irritated skin. I did claim this foundation is food-grade, so yes, bentonite clay may be taken internally. It contains many trace minerals that are important for your teeth, and is great at alkalizing the body. It can help relieve acid reflux, nausea and vomiting, constipation, among other things. Bentonite is unique in that it has a strong negative charge, so it acts as a magnet of sorts for the positively charged toxins. Bentonite also helps get oxygen to cells as it pulls excess hydrogen and allows the cells to replace it with oxygen instead. Over all, pretty great stuff. For the full scoop, you can read more here: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4702462561673774586#editor/target=post;postID=4437586705578043095

http://blogs.naturalnews.com/bentonite-clay-an-excellent-internal-and-external-detox-agent/

The next ingredient you will need is cocoa powder. This is to help tint it to the right color for your skin, so the darker your skin the more you will need to add. Cocoa has some good skin benefits too. It is full of antioxidant so when eaten or put on the skin it can help reverse cell damage. This may lead to anti aging properties. It can absorb UV light, protecting your skin from from sun damage. It can also help hydrate the skin, and contrary to popular belief, improves complexion by increasing blood flow to the skin. Chocolate is amazing. <3

Turmeric is another ingredient used for coloring. The yellow pigment will help you achieve a natural skin tone. This is another ingredient that has great benefits for you inside and out. Turmeric has antiseptic properties and has been used in traditional medicine to heal wounds. On the skin it can help heal acne and blemishes and prevent them from reoccurring. If you have oil prone skin, turmeric can help regulate the production of sebum (the skin's natural oil). It can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and other signs of aging. It's an effective treatment for hair loss and dandruff. On the inside it can help kill harmful bacteria, like h. pylori. It has been linked to breast cancer prevention. It can help control diabetes by moderating insulin levels, and prevent cardio vascular disease. Again, another amazing food that we should all be eating and rubbing all over our skin. For more on the amazing benefits check these links out:
http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=78

http://www.stylecraze.com/articles/turmeric-history-how-to-use-benefits/
[note: turmeric can be replaced with ginger for color, not sure what the skin benefits are though. You obviously have a computer, look it up.]

The final ingredient you need is beet root powder. You can make it yourself with dried beets and a food processor, or you can do it the lazy way like me and order it off amazon. I picked up a 4-oz back from denver spice for $3, $6 after shipping and handling.(http://www.amazon.com/Beet-Root-Powder-4oz-Natural-Coloring/dp/B009UGG388/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1395463489&sr=8-6&keywords=beet+root+powder) This stuff is a must to get the natural pink tones in your foundation. Beet powder or juice can also be used as an all natural food dye. On the skin or in the body, beets give you iron, B vitamins, and vitamin C. Beets are really good for you. They help prevent the cancer mutation in cells, slow tumor growth, and contain Boron which is essential to the production of human sex hormones. I'm starting to feel lazy so you can read the full scoop on how amazing beets are here: http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/blog/category/beet-root-powder/

Optional ingredients for this recipe include corn starch and green clay. Corn starch can be used if you have extra oily skin and need a little or absorbency, or if you made your mix too dark and need to lighten it up a bit. Green clay can be added if you have a lot of blemishes or redness that needs neutralizing (green is the opposite of red).

What you'll need:

Bentonite clay
Cocoa powder
Turmeric (or ginger)
Beet root powder
Cornstarch (optional)
Green clay (optional)
essential oil (optional if you want to make it compact)
a non-metal bowl
a non-metal storage container
a fine mesh sieve
a plastic spoon or rubber spatula

I don't have exact proportions for this recipe. Everyone's skin is different so you'll have to just add everything in small increments until it looks good. Start with a couple heaping spoonfuls of your clay. Push it through the sieve to remove any large chunks or particles. Next add cocoa powder until it is about as dark as your skin (might be hard to judge when the tone doesn't match so don't over do it, you can add more if you need it). Add the turmeric and beet powder until it matches your skin tone. Test if frequently on your hand or arm to ensure a good match. If you are adding corn starch or green clay, replace some of the bentonite clay until desired effect is reached. Voila, you have a non-toxic, food-grade foundation. If you want to make a compact you can add essential oil until the desired texture is reached and press it into a container. Otherwise. pour it in your non-metal container and use like any other face powder.

Results: I think I got my powder to match my skin pretty well. I experimented with turning it into a liquid foundation by mixing it with coconut oil. It didn't work so well. I also tried mixing it with jojoba oil, also not so great. On it's own it made my skin look a bit ashy or powdery and had moderate coverage. The best results I got were by putting a layer of my coconut oil/zinc moisturizer and putting the powder on top. The whiteness of it gave me a good base and neutralized some of my red blemishes. The powder stuck to my skin better and didn't leave a powdery finish. For concealer I just melted some coconut oil between my fingers and dipped it in the powder and applied under my eyes and over my blemishes. I think it worked pretty well. Not as great of coverage as from my commercial products but decent coverage and non toxic, I'll take it.

Monday, March 10, 2014

Foundation in progress

I've been slacking off this month. It's been getting down to finals and I've been busy. I tried making some foundation with not a lot of success. I bought bentonite clay (Aztec Healing Clay) to try and make a nontoxic mineral powder. I mixed it with cornstarch, for oil absorbency, and cocoa powder and ginger for color. I wasn't thrilled with the results. I looked quite gray and very powdery on my face, and offered very little coverage. I found a good tutorial online that uses a combination of bentonite clay, cocoa powder, turmeric, and beetroot powder that has a much more skin-looking color to it. I ordered some beet powder online and will post the results with the new combo. In the mean time I looked up some all natural makeups for sale.

So far the best stuff I can find is by Rejuva Minerals. It's an all natural makeup containing ingredients I can actually pronounce and am familiar with, like rice powder and pomegranate. The catch is that it is quite expensive. A 3 gm "trial size" jar will run you $10.95, the regular 18 gm container is $39.95, and you can't test it out on your skin ahead of time to make sure the color matches, nor can you return or exchange your product. If your skin to is darker and fairly forgiving it probably won't be as much of a problem. For those with fairer skin it's a gamble. It really does seem like great stuff and if I had lots of money and were accustomed to spending $40 on a foundation it would be totally worth it. However, I am a poor grad student who has a hard time paying $12 for foundation so I'm going to keep plugging away at making my own powder.

The added bonus of buying beetroot powder is that it can also be used for a natural blush and to add color to lip balms, when I get to it.

For those of you who are interested you can check out the Rejuva Minerals products here: http://www.rejuvaminerals.com/store/

Friday, February 21, 2014

Home made essential oil fail

I promised that I had an essential oil experiment in the works, and I did. That all came to a crash today. Let me start from the beginning.

I found a link on Pinterest on how to make your own lavender essential oil. It appeared to be very simple. You take some lavender flowers, crush them up a bit, and then let them soak in vodka for a week or so. Then you remove the flowers and allow the vodka to evaporate and what you are left with is essential oil. Since I already have a vile of lavender oil I decided to try my hand at eucalyptus oil since I've been wanting some and there is a eucalyptus tree around the corner from my house. I did a little good research and found the method was the same. So I went out and gathered a decent amount of new leaves (they seemed to be way oilier) and set out to give it a try.

I cut up the leave in to small is pieces and let them soak in the cheapest vodka I could find, >6 bucks for a fifth. I let them soak for about 9 days, mostly because I forgot what day I started. I removed the leaves and left the jar open to the air to allow the vodka to evaporate. After about 3 days of very little evaporation I got impatient and had an idea. I decided it was a good idea to heat the eucalyptus vodka over the stove to speed up the evaporation process. This worked somewhat.

I kept the solution over the lowest heat setting; there were no bubbles what so ever. It worked very well for a while. The vodka slowly evaporated and the mixture was reducing. Unfortunately, the eucalyptus seemed to react to the heat and the jar of liquid that was a dark amber color turned a darker and darker brown. After about an hour there was about a teaspoon left of black looking liquid that I poured back in it's original mason jar. It smelled pretty good, not like what I was expecting though. I was going to take a picture to post, and try adding it to a bath or something, since I went through all the trouble, but while I was out somebody mistook the jar as dirty and threw it in the sink and filled it with water. Well....so much for that. I'm tempted to try it again but buying eucalyptus oil seems much easier and not to mention quicker.

If any of you are interested in trying your own experiment with making and essential oil, here's the link to the original post I saw about lavender oil http://www.condoblues.com/2011/07/how-to-make-lavender-essential-oil.html

Also I found a great website that has tons of uses for various essential oils, which I think is pretty awesome. http://thecoconutmama.com/2013/10/50-uses-for-essential-oils/

Essential oils are the perfect alternative to the ever vague and extremely toxic "fragrance," or "parfum" ingredients found in cosmetics. If you start looking up the toxicology of your regular products you'll find that one of the most toxic ingredients in most things is "fragrance."

I also found another great site that has a list of chemicals you'll find in different cosmetics and why they are bad. http://www.purezing.com/living/toxins/living_toxins_dangerousingredients.html. It's pretty shocking the kinds of things that we put on our bodies, and in turn release back into the environment.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

No Shampoo Update

I guess I haven't been very faithful about writing this month. My apologies to both my readers. But I have had a break through with the no shampoo method. Finally after two weeks my hair finally looked clean! It had shine, body, and volume, instead of the usually flat, greasy mess.

It was pointed out to me that my tablespoon measure that I had been using was actually a teaspoon measure. So I had been washing my hair with 1/3 baking soda I should have. I upped the amount of baking soda and it helped my hair quite a bit. I read that if your hair is really oily you can use up to 2 tablespoons.

My hair smells good for the most part. I still gait faint hints of vinegar when I'm exercising, and on the ends of my hair from time to time. To keep my hair smelling nice, which is important to me, I decided to dilute some lavender oil in water and keep it in a small spray bottle. I spray down my hair in the morning, or after I wash may hair. I use a 2 ounce glass bottle from the vitamin store and I added 5 drops of oil, but it could stand to have a few more drops in my opinion.

Overall, I'm feeling happier and less frustrated with the no shampoo method.

Despite my infrequent blogging I have been keeping busy with my beauty experiments. Posts to come: better dry shampoo recipe, natural hair spray, and how to make an essential oil. Stay tuned!

Monday, February 10, 2014

Dry Shampoo

Well here we are, 10 days into February and about 2 weeks since shampoo has touched my hair. I knew getting into this that I was not going to see a good hair day for a while. The first week or so, my oil and unmanageable hair was a novelty. "Oh, my hair is so flat and greasy, hehehe! At least I'm not covered in chemicals! Maybe I'll do this more than a month." Yeah, that crazy idea didn't last. My hair is frizzy and greasy at the same time, heavy and dull, and I'm getting fed up with it.

After I washed my hair yesterday, it seemed to have more volume, and I thought, "Hey! Maybe it's starting to work like everyone promised me it would!" Wrong. My hair looked worse than ever after I blow dried it. It had that stuck-together-by-grease look to it, but didn't feel especially greasy. It was at this point I decided to reach for the dry shampoo. For those of you who are unfamiliar, dry shampoo is a powder or spray you put into your hair at the root to absorb extra oil between washes.

For a while I used the Suave brand of dry shampoo spray, but I've been out for a while, and with my new non-toxic endeavor, I decided to make some. After poking around the internet, I found one basic recipe for brown hair. The basic recipe is corn starch and cocoa powder. Other recipes included rice flour and arrowroot powder in addition to the first two ingredients. I opted for just cocoa powder and corn starch, as they were the only ingredients I had readily available.

Ingredients:
  • ½ cup cocoa powder
  • 2 Tbsp corn starch
  • A few drops lavender essential oil (optional)
Mix together and put in a container. I put mine in a salt shaker I got from the dollar store. I've seen other people put it in a small jar and use a makeup brush to apply to the roots.

This recipe works pretty well; it does absorb a good amount of oil. The downside is you smell like cocoa. Maybe you won't mind; I really don't care for it. Also, dry shampoo does not make your hair look like it has been washed, unfortunately. It does take care of some of the oil, but your hair will still look a little greasy and potentially dirty. I'm on the hunt for a better recipe, and I'll keep you posted...no pun intended.

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Hello February, Goodbye Shampoo!

Does anyone else feel like last month flew by? Here we are, February 1, and it's time for me to transition to the next phase of my beauty detox. Apparently the no-shampoo method is highly debated on the internet, or so say many other beauty bloggers that have tried this method. If you go looking for other information on this topic, you'll find that it's commonly referred to as "no 'poo," which I think is just stupid. It's somebody's failed attempt at being cute and clever, at least in my opinion. So you will never see me use that term, but I digress.

For those of you who are completely unfamiliar with the whole thing, the idea is that you ditch the shampoo and conditioner and replace them with baking soda and a vinegar rinse. Why would someone do such a thing?! Well, shampoos and conditioners fall into that same unregulated category of cosmetics that contains a plethora of potentially hazardous ingredients. In addition to letting those nasty chemicals seep into your blood via the scalp, what you rise away goes down the drain and is released into the environment.

Shampoos in general are very basic, typically ranging from 9–11, which is rough on your skin. Conditioners are typically acidic from ingredients like citric acid. I could not find the typical range for conditioners, but I would bet that it's not enough to balance out your skin. Shampoo's general role is to get rid of dirt and oils from the scalp and hair. Conditioner then sweeps in and replaces the good stuff you took out. Unfortunately, the artificial stuff is toxic, and it also does not do as good of a job as your scalp can do for itself when left alone.

But what about my pretty-smelling hair?! I can't walk around with my hair actually smelling like hair. Turns out artificial fragrances are one of the most common toxic ingredients in all cosmetics, and you should be wary of ingredients like "fragrance", or "parfum". How vague is that? It's like when food contains the ingredient, "flavor". You should definitely be suspicious. Don't get me wrong, nice-smelling hair is one of my favorite things, but I prefer being healthy. So I decided to go with natural oils to give my hair a nice scent.

Most shampoos and conditioners contain silicone, usually listed as dimethicone. This is to provide shine and make hair smooth and less frizzy. Apart from being an organ and environmental toxin, this stuff will coat your hair and then make it unable to absorb moisture, drying it out in the long run. Here's a link to a page with other common toxic ingredients you might find in your shampoo.

Through my readings on this subject, I came across a few different methods. Most people suggest using 1–2 tablespoons of baking soda, depending on how thick your hair is. Some suggest making a paste in your hand; others dissolve it in water, then pour it on the scalp for evener distribution. I decided to just make a paste so I could be lazy and just keep a jar of baking soda in the shower. If the baking soda is too drying for your scalp, there is the option of adding a natural oil to the mix. Common suggestions included olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, and tea tree oil. The benefit of using baking soda is that it removes dirt from the hair and scalp, but leaves the good stuff like natural oils.

You may recall from my earlier post that baking soda has a pH of 9 – a bit too basic for the skin. This is one of the reasons you do a vinegar rinse after.

Vinegar works in a couple different ways, one of which is that it closes the cuticle surrounding the hair. This helps keep the hair smooth, protects it from damage, and lets the hair reflect light, making it "shiny". It also helps remove buildup and residue of dirt, oil, and hair care products. It can also stimulate blood flow in the capillaries, improving the scalp's overall health. Most people seem to favor apple cider vinegar (ACV), but white should work just as well. One blogger even preferred white because the ACV was too "heavy" for her hair.

Most people say there is an adjustment period of anywhere from 2–8 weeks where your scalp rebalances everything. During this time you can expect your hair to be fairly unpredictable, e.g. very oily one day, very dry the next, etc. I'm hoping that since I wash my hair 2–3 times a week, mine will adjust quickly.

I was afraid the vinegar was going to leave me smelling like a salad, but others who have tried this assured me over and over that the vinegar smell dissipates as it dries. Even so, I did not like the prospect of having my hair smell like nothing, so I opted to add lavender essential oil to my rinse.

One thing that was mentioned by most bloggers is the use of "hard water", meaning high concentrations of minerals in your water. Apparently, most shampoos contain ingredients to combat this problem and prevent mineral build up. One natural option is to use distilled or rain water. Installing a water softener is another. I'm not doing either of those because I'm poor and lazy, so we'll just have to see how this goes.

Here's what you'll need:



Baking Soda
1 small glass or stainless steel container
1 tablespoon measure
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 cup water
4 drops lavender essential oil (optional)

I just poured my baking soda in an airtight container to keep in the shower. You could also dilute it (1 tbsp : 1 cup water) and leave it in a bottle in the shower if you prefer. I have a cute tablespoon measure that was given as part of a favor at a wedding I went to over the summer that has just been sitting in a drawer doing nothing for months, so I decided to just leave that in the shower with my jar of baking soda.

I diluted 2 tbsp of vinegar in 1 cup of water and poured it into an old stainless steel water bottle I had lying around. I added 4 drops of essential oil and shook it all together.

The first thing you want to do is wet your hair. Then proceed to either make a paste with the baking soda in your hand, or pour the pre-dissolved solution all over your scalp, focusing on the roots. Since I didn't make a solution, I stuck my head under the shower for a second to help dilute and distribute the baking soda. Massage the mixture into your scalp for about 1 minute, slightly longer if you have very oily hair. One thing many people have noted about this method is that you get zero lather from the baking soda. It's true; it has more of a tingly, slippery feel to it. Be gentle on your hair as you work this stuff in, as your hair might be brittle from previously used, drying products. The last, very important step is to rinse thoroughly. This is important because you don't want any baking soda residue on the scalp. Not only is it drying and basic, which may cause irritation, but if you remember science class, there could be bad reaction if there is still baking soda in your hair when you do your vinegar rinse.

Many people suggest not putting the vinegar rinse directly on the scalp and concentrating on the length of the hair. I do not recommend this because of what we know about skin pH. Also, the scalp should always be your area of concern because healthy scalp = healthy hair. Besides, there is plenty of rinse to go around, so you don't have to choose! Pour the solution evenly over your hair and scalp and massage for a few seconds. I let mine sit for about 3 minutes while I wash my body. My scalp started to tingle a little, and I decided it was time to rinse.

I was actually surprised at how smooth and sleek my hair felt while I was rinsing it: similar to the way it feels when you rinse out conditioner.

Here's my "before" picture. It has been about 4 days since I last washed my hair, and my hair had been up in a bun the night before, so it has a bit more body and waves than it would normally. It was also pretty oily at the roots and dry toward the ends.

One thing I was concerned about are tangles. I have tons of fine, wavy hair, so I get tangled very easily. Fortunately, when you don't strip your hair of its natural oils, your hair is less likely to tangle. I would like to add a side note that vigorously rubbing your hair with a towel can not only tangle hair, but it can also cause damage and breakage. So now I'm in the habit of gently squeezing it dry and putting it up in a hair towel for a little while.

 After the wash my hair was about as tangled as it would be if I had used shampoo and conditioner. Typically, I would reach for my olive oil heat protecting spray, which doubles as a fantastic detangler, but since I'm going au naturel I opted for a little bit of coconut oil instead. The result was smooth, easy-to-brush hair.

When I blow dried my hair, the roots were behaving as though they were oily, even though they looked and felt quite (surprisingly) clean. I could not get any lift, and the top of my hair is quite flat. This also happened when I used commercial shampoos (though not as bad) and could be partially attributed to the heaviness of having lots of fine hair, and possibly from being left in the towel too long.

Overall I'm quite surprised and satisfied with the results. My hair is quite smooth and shiny and does not smell like vinegar! It has a very light scent of lavender on the ends. I will have to have my boyfriend smell the roots when I see him to find out if the vinegar smell has lingered there. It will be interesting to see how my hair changes over the next month.

For other people's takes on this process, you can read here: